Recommend prying from the back first because it is straight the front is curved. Very small flathead screw drivers are a help here just to get the plastic pry tool started. Be sure to unplug the window switch and the door lock switch before setting the panel aside.
They are different shapes so you dont have to worry about mixing them up. The next one is tricky, but my plastic interior set and some very small flat head screwdrivers came in handy. In the grab handle pocket there is a small square trim piece.
Pry up with whatever tools you see fit to expose the screw underneath. Remove this screw. Sorry for the dirt. This picture shows one of the screws at the bottom of the door panel that hold it to the door. The door panel is almost ready to come off at this point. From here you lift up slightly on the door panel to begin removing it, but the door handle cable will still be connected to the door handle.
Disconnecting the door handle cable is pretty simple. This is showing only the bottom hooks of the door panel still engaged with the door so that you can see the door handle cable still connected. Use a small flathead to gently push up on one of the tabs shown above. Use the flathead on the other side so both tabs are ready to slide through the bracket. This picture shows the end of my cable with some amber-colored grease on it.
You can also see the slot in the handle itself. With the green tab disengaged from its bracket, you swing the entire cable over so that the braided cable lines up with that slot and you can lift up. There are two nuts on the other end of the handle, one upper and one lower. Remove the two nuts and the handle will be loose.
No photo. TIP: If you have some type of padding that you can tape to the outside of the door with masking tape, put it on below the handle area to prevent any paint scratches. Foam packing material or bubble wrap works well for this protection. With the handle hardware removed, dislodge the handle by pushing it gently toward the front end of the truck.
Then, pull the handle out of the door metal. The lock rod will still be connected to the lock pawl. Photo 15 shows the lock rod connected to the lock pawl. Before disconnecting the rod, note the orientation of the lock rod. If you are leaving the lock in place, this rod will need to be reconnected in the same orientation. On this one, you can see the short end of the rod is nearest the handle.
Use a screwdriver to push the tips of the pawl open and pull the rod toward the screwdriver at the same time. Or scroll down to Photo Disconnect the handle pull cable from the back of the handle.
Photo 16 shows the cable mount. The strain relief can be disconnected at the handle then the cable can be removed from the handle pull. Also disconnect any wires that may still be on the handle. If there are any, look inside the door cavity for the connection point and release the connector there. Remove the lock rod from the door if you are removing the lock cylinder installing the PunchPlug in the handle.
Tip the rod 90 degrees so that the hook at the bottom can lift up off the tab it is attached to on the latch. See Photo 16b. If the lock rod is not removed from the door, it will continue to move up or down each time you lock or unlock the door. It most likely will fall off at some point and you will have a rattle in the door! If the outside of the handle is damaged to a point you can't live with, or if the backside has more than just broken lock holding clips as shown at the top of Photo 17, then you may need a new handle.
However, if the handle seems to work, doesn't have any outside visible damage, and only the lock holding clip s are broken, then you can probably still use this handle. Before continuing, protect your door handle painted side with masking tape to prevent scratching! A vice will work fine, but be careful and use padding on the jaws to prevent scratches! If you have already been burglarized, the lock cylinder may already be loose in the handle. If so, go ahead and remove it from the lock holder.
Photo 17 shows a lock holder that is broken from a break-in. When the thief twists the lock with a channel lock pliers or other tool, the plastic clip s that hold the lock in place snap and the lock can spin in the holder, unlocking the door. The two arrows at the top of Photo 17 show the location of the broken clip on this handle. That clip should be the mirror image of the clip on the bottom that the other arrow is pointing to.
If your truck has not been attacked, then the lock holder is probably not broken, so you will need to release the two plastic holders that hold the lock in place. You can use two screwdrivers as shown in Photo 17a.
The arrows point to the lock holding clips that are part of the handle. Wedge the screwdriver tips in so the clips separate enough to allow the lock to twist in the holder. This is just to keep dirt and moisture out. Use just enough to coat the edge of the lock hole that the plug will cover. This disc will go on the outside of the handle to hide the small hole where you put your key in to get at the lock.
Put this on last, after the handle is back in the door and all other installation steps are complete. Set this aside for now, but don't lose it. It will be bagged with a screw and a flat, mushroom shaped piece of metal with a small hole in the center. Standard color for the plug is black textured. This color can be changed if so desired by lightly sanding the painted side, then painting over it with the desired color. Most dealerships carry touch up paint that can be used.
Also, some colors can be matched pretty close with regular spray paint. Start the screw into the mushroom hole. It works best to thread the screw in about half the length of the screw while on the bench as it is a tight fit. Then, back the screw out so just a couple threads are coming through the metal. The stem of the mushroom keeps the part from moving as you snug up the screw. Do that now, but not too tight. Just get it snug, then stop.
Use your fingers to check that the assembly is in the lock holder securely. You don't want the rod loose inside the door as it could cause some damage if left unanchored. We didn't get a good picture of the rod removal process, so if someone wants to send us one or two, we will put them in this tutorial to help others.
If you chose not to remove the lock from the handle, then continue with this installation tutorial here. Photo 23 shows how the plate mounts to the handle. This photo is just for reference, you will need to put the handle back in the door before putting the plate on.
If the handle was removed completely, reconnect the handle pull cable and any wires that were disconnected to remove the handle. If you kept the lock in the handle, use the door key to turn the lock so the lock pawl is pointed downward.
This will ease the plate placement. The large hole in the plate goes around the lock pawl. Photo 24a. Now is a good time to re-attach the lock rod that was connected to the lock pawl.
It is much easier than when the handle is fastened to the door. Remember to put the lock rod back in the pawl the same way it was connected when you removed it. See Photo 15 above. If the lock rod is put on the other way, it may bind and cause difficulty locking and unlocking the door.
Just make sure you remove the rod that was connected to the lock pawl before going on. With the plate started on the handle, put the handle back in place in the door. Get the handle studs in place, and have the plate on the back of the handle. This mounting tab aligns with the hole for handle mounting. Your plate will look a bit different with the mounting hole complete rather than open like this early prototype. You can now put the bolt in. Check that the other end of the plate is on the lower handle mounting stud.
Put the nut on that stud to hold the plate in place, but don't tighten yet. Next, tighten the door jamb bolt that holds the lock end of the handle. Then, bo back and tighten the nut over the plate. Check all connectors, cables, wires and anything else that was disconnected during installation.
Tip: It is always a good idea when working on the doors to make sure the other doors are unlocked or even open in case something is missed and you need to get in again. When operation is confirmed, put the door back together in reverse order. You can use this tutorial by starting at Photo 14 and working backwards. Don't worry about excess silicone right now. Let it dry overnight and then peel any excess off the handle. If you have a handle painted to match the truck, the color of the cap can be changed using some touch up spray paint from the dealer or you can get pretty close with hardware store paint in most cases.
Lastly, put your window warning labels in the window. They go on the inside surface and are very sticky, so be sure before touching them to the glass. All done? Prevents loss of that expensive tailgate!
NOTE: If your truck does not have a lock on the passenger door, or rear doors, you still need a plate on these doors. Without showing how it's done, it is possible to get at other rods inside the door even if no lock is in the handle. Be sure to install a Jimmi' Jammer on each door that has an outside handle! You may also wish to watch a short video that will show the process.
Photo 1 The first photo shows a drivers side door handle. This same handle is used on the following vehicles: and newer F and newer Raptor and newer F, F, F Super Duty If your handle resembles this shape, this is the correct tutorial. Photo 2 Door panel to be removed. The following pieces must be removed to get at screws.
The upper right corner plastic cover The inside pull handle cover silver in this picture The small cover below the pull handle, near center of door. Door panel removal process Note: To help prevent scratching, wrap your tools that may contact painted surfaces in masking tape before beginning.
Roll your window down now. It will be easier to pull the door panel off with the window down. Photos 3 and 3a Remove the upper inside corner trim piece. Photo 3a shows the snap clip locations on the backside of the corner cover. Photo 4 One door panel screw is found under the corner cover. Remove this screw now. Be sure to put all hardware in a pan to keep from losing it. Photos 5 and 5a Carefully pry the cover off the door panel pull handle. Photo 6 Two door panel holding screws are hidden behind the cover.
Photo 6 shows the locations. Remove these screws now. Photo 7 There is a small cover under the pull handle. Photo 8 The arrows show the approximate locations of 2 screws along the bottom edge of the door panel. Photos 9 and 9a The door panel is also held on by several snap clips. Photo 9a shows the back side of the panel with the snap locations highlighted. Photo 10 and 10a Photo Once loose, set the panel on the box. Photo 10a. They include: Electric door lock switch cable Window control connector Inside handle pull cable Each of these are easy to disconnect once the release tab on each connector is pushed.
The next photos show these connectors and release tabs. Photo 11 Disconnect the electric lock wires.
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